F1 How-To

Convert Your F1 to a Wrist Strap

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Quickly changing your F1 camera strap from a long sling-style strap to a traditional-length neck strap needs no explanation — but converting it to a wrist strap is less obvious. Watch this video to see how easy it is!

  1. Shorten the strap all the way.
  2. Loop it through the D-rings.
  3. There is no step 3.

*Not applicable to the F1ultralight.

Install a Lug Mount F1 Series Strap, or Split Rings

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*If you’re just installing Simplr Split Rings, not an F1 camera strap, you can skip straight to 1:07 in this video.

Mounting a camera strap with split rings is just like putting a key on a keychain — but instead of a key, it’s a camera.

  1. Situate your Lug Mount F1 or F1ultralight so the adjustment tab is in front of your body when the camera strap is fully-extended, and the camera is worn sling-style. Some people prefer to wear the camera on their left, others to their right. Do whatever feels most comfortable for you.
  2. Double-check the orientation of the strap to make sure you’re not installing it backwards or inside-out (the “S” logo goes on the inside).
  3. Pry a small gap in the split ring, just wide enough to feed the end of the wire through the lug on your camera. It’s unlikely you’ll need any tools for this; your thumbnail should suffice.
  4. Turn the split ring until the entire wire has passed through the lug and it springs back together (just like a keychain).

Install a Flat Mount F1

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F1 Flat Mount Camera Strap on Fuji X-E4

The flat mount version of our F1 camera strap installs similarly to a “traditional” camera strap, with a significant difference — the sliplok and keeper are used only for installation, not to adjust the length of the camera strap.

Installing your flat mount Simplr F1 Sling-Style Camera Strap
  1. Situate your F1 so the adjustment tab is in front of your body when the camera strap is fully-extended, and the camera is worn sling-style.
  2. Pull the keeper about 2″ (5cm) away from the D-ring to “unlock” it. It’s held securely in place by friction — and needs a strong tug.
  3. You don’t need to remove the sliplok and keeper altogether, just feed the cut end of the webbing back through both.
  4. Insert the loose end through the lug, far enough so the webbing can double-back along itself (like when it came out of the package).
  5. Feed the webbing back through the sliplok, then the keeper, as shown (please note the orientation of the ridges in the sliplok).
  6. Pull the keeper back into “locked” position (next to the D-ring) with a strong tug. This will hold the end neatly in place (unlike most other straps)
  7. Repeat on the other side (the “S” logo goes on the inside).